In 2004, my grandmother, Bessie Barron Mercer passed away. She was the epitome of “diamond in the rough.” She was a tough, poverty-stricken, loving mother who spent most of her life improvising care and comfort for others. Yet, as one neighbor put it, “I can hear her singing across the cotton field.” And her laugh! It cascaded across the fields like the call of the pileated woodpecker.
One thing she would often say is that they moved from Oxford, Mississippi because of the boll weevil. As she slipped into the debilitating influence of Alzheimer’s, she would often repeat that story to others, and kept mentioning the “big white house” they left behind. That “big white house” piqued my curiosity and I set off on a journey to discover what she was talking about. Did that house still exist? Were the Barrons landholders? If so, did they own a plantation and hold slaves? On this journey I had four other objectives. I wanted to see my grandmother’s grave, proceed to Oxford, then at least take a look at Dyersburg, Tennessee to see the place they migrated to, and then move on to Wardell, Missouri to check on my grandfather’s grave. Finally, I wanted to see the farm, the place I spent many memorable summers. My grandmother died during the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina.
Bessie’s old home site in Long Beach, MS
She was a hundred years old and quite fragile. They evacuated her home and moved her to Pensacola, Florida to a nursing home, where she passed away a few days afterwards. After the personal care and space she had in her home in Long Beach, she must have certainly experienced the disorientation and loneliness of a nursing home, but under the circumstances of that natural disaster, it was the best that could have been done for her. She was buried later in Long Beach. I was in Alaska at the time and it was nigh onto impossible for anyone to travel to the Gulf Coast unless you had property in the area. I found her marker, a simple stone flush with the ground, probably the most fitting testament to her life. It was shaded by pine trees, resting in a well-maintained cemetery. I later visited the site of her last home. It was gone, one of the many homes destroyed in the hurricane.
Bessie Mercer’s Grave Marker
I arrived in Oxford in January, 2014. Everyone I talked to said you need to enroll on Ancestry.com. That is somewhat expensive and, besides, what’s the fun in that? My question revolved around property, that “big white house.” So I headed to the Recorder’s office and browsed through a few decades of deed registrations spanning the period of 1835 through 1920. Only one record of a Barron. It was a conveyance issued in a will. The man had died and left a conditional tenancy to several individuals, most likely in exchange of caring for his widow. One of those people was a Vic Barron (short for Victoria). She had married TJ Barron. Vic Barron was a witness and WJ Barron was a notary public. “WJ” was Bessie’s father, usually referred to as Jesse. TJ was not part of the immediate Barron family that Bessie belonged to, but there were only two lines of Barrons living in Lafayette County, as best as I could surmise from my research. It was the only hint of residence I had of any Barron. Later study of the census record showed the Barron families lived next to each other. With that knowledge, it led to some credence that the location described in the conveyance would point to the general area that they lived.
1910 Census Report
The parlance of plot assignments was NE ¼, Section 9, Township 10, Range 3 West, 160 Acres of an area also referred to as the Widow Duke land. Maps at the Recorder’s office show the Range lines (basically longitude), crisscrossed East to West by township borders, each township divided into four sections, each section divided into four 160 acre quadrants. Some people wonder what the magic of 160 acres is about, but it was the confluence of navigational math and the idea of a full-time farm in 1787 when surveying standards evolved in the United States. So what Mr. JR Cook had left to his widow was probably the full-size farm granted to the original settlers in the region. I found the location of the “farm” and it only deepened the mystery. It was hilly and blanketed by oak forest. This was definitely a far cry from the flat cotton fields I expected. I went away thinking that I might have to revisit the deeds office and do more research. Recordings have been known to be in error, but at this point I was running out of time and had to move on. My next question was “Where is the best place to grow cotton?” To be honest, I did not see any prime farmland in Lafayette County, yet a quick glance at its history shows it was a rich agricultural land. Where did it go? I went over to the county extension office and they pointed me to the USDA Soil Research Lab which was not far from the University of Mississippi campus. It was there that the truth became known.
School Register showing Myrtle and Alvey
What Ancestry.com cannot provide is Seth Dabney. About my age, he came to me draped in decades of knowledge on Lafayette County’s soil. He produced a book last updated in 1981. Within was a color map. Most of the county was covered in yellow which signified a type of soil. This type of soil covered the quadrant in question. Under prime conditions, this soil would have about a meter of rich top soil, followed by sand. Seth’s question to me was when, and I stated 1915. He smiled and replied, “In 1915, Lafayette County was experiencing desertification. About every inch of land was being farmed, and they grew cotton everywhere, even on hilly ground. At that time the top soil was being depleted and many farms were being abandoned. The exposed sandy soil was not treated with ground cover and the result was a broadening expanse of desert ground. In essence, the boll weevil in Lafayette County was merely the nail on the coffin. In conclusion, further study of the census record will be required to piece together the plots of land owned by various individuals in the area. This may make it possible to define where the LC Cook property resided and the surrounding families and structures. The “big white house” that Bessie referred to may have been the brief interlude in her history where she lived in a relatively fine house. Victoria was a daughter of LC Cook and it is conceivable that of the people who received the conveyance, the Barrons may have inhabited the house and cared for the widow and her farm. How this may have pertained to Jesse Barron’s family is not clear, but one thing gleamed from the oral history of my mother and others in the Wardell area was the tendency of families to allow their children to reside in other homes. Lautain, Bessie’s second daughter, lived in a home in Wardell so as to babysit full time the children of the local doctor. Erlene Hampton, later Miller, was a niece to Bill and Bessie Mercer and she often lived in their home to escape what may have been an abusive situation at home. So it may not be surprising to discover that Bessie may have lived in the big white house at times, assisting Vic Barron. No doubt, desperate poverty forced the Barrons to move north. Why Dyersburg remains a mystery. One trail to follow in the future may be to compare landholder names in Lafayette County with names near Lenox, TN, a small village northwest of Dyersburg. Oral research and school records pointed to that small village. It might provide a clue as to how Jesse narrowed in on that town.
Margerette Barron Grave Marker
Before driving to Lenox, I visited the only grave site where a Barron is buried in Lafayette Country. It belongs to Solomon H and Magarette Barron. Solomon died in 1886 at the age of 61, so he may have been the grandfather of Jesse Barron. All in all, it paints a bleak picture that only two Barrons, over nearly a century, have little recorded presence in Lafayette County and could not even afford a marked grave except for Solomon and Margaret. Thus was the life of tenant farmers. Lenox was a sharp contrast to Oxford. It rested on the edge of a massive flood plain that extends several miles to the Mississippi River. This would, no doubt, be perfect cotton growing conditions. Jesse, however, would move on to Wardell where Bessie would eventually meet Bill Mercer and marry. Yet many of the Barrons remained in Lenox, so much so that some remember “Uncle Bill”. I was able to obtain a couple of contacts but due to time constraints was unable to meet them. Wardell was, back then, about a day’s trip, impeded no doubt by the crossing of the Mississippi. Not sure whether there was a bridge back then, it was most likely crossed by ferry since cars were not yet all that prominent. It only took me a couple of hours. I located Bill Mercer’s grave. His grave, as well as the rest of the cemetery, was in good condition. I walked about the cemetery to see if any Barrons were buried there, but found none. What I did find, however, was something rather peculiar. The following families appeared: Mercer, Miller, Petty and Peterson. Anyone familiar with the Mercers would immediately recognize the name of their neighbors when they owned the farm at Coon Island.
Bill Mercer’s Grave Marker, Wardell, MO
I took a couple of photos of Wardell just for reference, including a row of abandoned shops. The one in the foreground was the dry goods store run by H…. where Bessie and possibly the Pettys worked. Mom tells the story of how a snake was discovered in the shoe section and everyone conspired to never tell Bessie about it – her fear of snakes was already famous. My next stop was Coon Island. All the years I was on the farm, I never heard the place described as Coon Island. But Harley Petty confirmed that it was known to them as such. What we knew as “the slough” is now a wildlife reserve, practically a Duck Dynasty paradise. The land we once knew as a ring of family farms of about 2-400 acres each, has been replaced with an unending rice field. The only house visible is the old Moore’s house, which today appears no different. Even the old tractor they used remains in the same place I remember it, back in 1968. The old barn even remains pretty much as decrepit as ever, but rather functional.
Harley and Bonnie Petty
The only family that remains is Harley and Bonnie Petty. They farmed into the mid 1990’s and Harley sold some of his acreage and focused on building homes. He has done very well, as did his son. I was able to locate the Petty’s purely by a chance encounter with Harley and his son back in 1981 or so, when I revisited the place. At that time, Ronnie Miller had a home in an area where the black top was extended to the southwest. On the way to his house we met Harley picking blackberries. It was ungodly hot, Harley was drenched with sweat, but had that infectious smile on his face. He is no different today. Well, it was upon that vacant field that he would later build his home and that of his son’s. Harley speaks fondly of Bill and Bessie. Bill was a giving man, always willing to put down everything to help a neighbor. Bessie and Harley’s mother would sit under the shade, sipping sweet tea and shelling peas. I recall those days as well, especially if I was the only one on the farm. Bored to death, about my only recreation was hopping the fence and visiting the Pettys. I recall Harley giving me a ride on what was then a giant tractor, the old Minneapolis. I remember the numerous gum trees because in those days no one had air conditioning and those huge shade trees seemed capable of producing some air movement on the hottest day.
Harley also confirmed the thread of news that led one family then another to Coon Island. The entire area was once owned by a timber company. So much timber was harvested that there was even a railroad built into the area. Most of the inhabitants were Eastern Europeans. But as the timber was cleared, it became obvious that the potential sale value of the land exceeded the regrowth cycle of the trees. The lumber company closed the operation and began selling the land. Because it was riddled with stumps, brush, trees and debris, it was sold at a substantial discount. Furthermore, banks were provided more incentives to loan money for this type of land. As a result, two families that had no land in Wardell were able to procure land: Pettys and Mercers. For Bill Mercer, he needed help from the daughters, but it would be the first piece of farmland owned in the line of Bessie Barron and Bill Mercer. The profoundness of this event cannot be measured. I recall the land, often wondering about the huge piles of timber that lined the fields. In the interim period, there was a lot of livestock farming and I recall how Bill peppered his farm with pastures for hogs and dairy cattle. I recall the auction barn outside Poplar Bluff. It no longer exists because I doubt there is a piece of meat within 30 miles of the place unless it is the family chicken. But the self-subsistent full-time family farm was evolving. Not long after Bill perished, the livestock was sold, the fences and barns brought down and rice was introduced. A few years after 1981, the Mercer home was demolished and is today nothing but a rice field (I bet the rice grows especially well where the outhouse was located).
Harley also answered another mystery – the church that Bill preached at. Their spirituality factored profoundly into their approach to life. Bill was seen as a rather quiet, modest man who was always willing to help. I have never met anyone who did not like him. I was young then and found him rather distant. But I sensed the ice breaking the day we were crossing the back barn lot. It was then that we were spied by this nutty rooster that proceeded to race across the barn lot and jump onto the tractor! After being lectured earlier that week about throwing dirt clods at that rooster, it was comforting to see my grandfather way-lay into that rooster with his big, steel-toed boot, kicking that old bird twenty feet into the air. Finally, a man after my own heart. Well, back to Bill’s church. From Mom, I found out he was a changed man after getting that farm. I have heard Bessie say that one day, while plowing the field, Bill stopped the tractor, got off, knelt and thanked the Lord for that farm. It still brings me tears to picture this big, simple man, thanking God for a farm. I appreciate the depth of his prayer the more I learn the legacy Bill and Bessie inherited, generations of being tenant farmers, hard labor supporting and supervising farms, but never owning one. Bill apparently never took another drop of liquor, a habit he was known to indulge in on the weekends. He felt led to preach the gospel on the street corner in Wardell, and that would evolve eventually to being a lay preacher at some unspecified church near Naylor.
Church of the First Born, Naylor, MO
Harley gave the name – the Church of the First Born. I did an Internet search for the church and it triangulated to the Sylvan Schoolhouse. That old schoolhouse is now on the National Historical Registry. I found it on the GPS mapping program and proceeded to locate the building. It took me down a meandering dirt country road. I took a picture of the place, but I was still a bit puzzled, I recalled as a kid riding in the back of the early 1950’s Chevy with a quilt over me, going up and down hills and seeing trees outside the window. Sylvan Schoolhouse was out in the middle of a flat plain with no hill in sight. Well, I tapped into the GPS program my next destination, Dora, Missouri. It took me through Naylor and I drove the few blocks of the village and found no hill or anything resembling what I recalled of the church. The route took me west and it was only within a few miles that the countryside changed to rolling hills. I kept my eyes open and to my surprise saw the sign – Church of the First Born. It was early Sunday morning, so I left a note in the door with my number and referenced Bill Mercer. Someone texted me a number to contact, a person who remembered Bill Mercer. The wonders of mobile phones and texting brought me, a total stranger to anyone in the Church of the First Born, into contact with a woman who was only a bit older than I. She told me the story she remembered of Bill Mercer. He preached the word, this simple man of little education, his hands calloused from hard work, who did not receive a salary for being a preacher. She was a teenager back then, and she told me the church at that time was in Naylor, but the building was long ago razed. The congregation then moved temporarily to the Sylvan Schoolhouse until the current church building was constructed. Yet, I still remember those hills, whether it was to a church they were traveling or a visit to one of many “brothers and sisters” that I saw. This woman, without solicitation, echoed the words of Harley and others – that he was a kind man.
As I completed this journey, I reflected on the significant truths we do know about Bill and Bessie. In this day and age, we can no longer easily trace families from our generation because not many of them consist of one man and one woman. Divorce and single-parenthood has made it difficult to trace families. In contrast, I saw the lineage of a desperately poor family sticking together because it was all they had – each other. These were people who saw the family as the only thing that mattered, that accepted one another regardless of the road that a head-of-household or circumstances would take them. It is an amazing testament. The other thing that has changed radically is the dispersal of the family. “Go West, young man” was Horace Greeley’s proclamation, but for practical purposes a large part of the family unit remained behind. And when they moved West, they moved together. Indications show that the Barrons may have migrated from Alabama, but they did so together, in much the same manner they moved to Dyersburg, Tennessee. Today? We and our children are spread thousands of miles apart. Our parents often age in isolation, far from the caring eyes of their children. It is the world we live in, mobile, virulent, evolving. In my own office I work alongside people who lived in Puerto Rico and Kwajalun, and another in Germany. As I type this paragraph, I live in Alaska, with my father in Missouri, a daughter living in Kansas City currently traveling in Morocco, and the other daughter living in New York City. Amongst Bessie’s descendants the exceptions are those who do NOT go to college. Everyone is fairly well off, living comfortably. The same applies for many of the Barron descendants in Dyersburg. They are well educated, hard working professionals. Jesse Barron would certainly be amazed. Bessie simply took it in stride, always thankful to her Lord for caring for her and her loved ones. Our generation is the end of the Cotton Road.
Where is the White House? I kicked myself for not taking a picture of the countryside around which the old house may have stood. To be quite frank, I was so confused over what I saw, that I wasn’t sure if taking a picture would say anything. So just imagine oak forest over rolling hills as far as the eye can see, and you have the idea. I drove down a gravel road that put me before an establishment that looked like it was from the set Deliverance. The location of the home may be south of Oxford down Highway 9 off County Road 3011. But I would like to return to Oxford and run through the documentation one more time. First, the census record shows the neighbors, some of which may have held title to land. Second, the school records I located should tell me the location of the school. Finally, I can work with the local historical society (which is outstanding) and investigate the Cook family and the so-called “Widow Duke.” With the added information, the location of the “white house” may be triangulated and the location confirmed.
What is “Church of the First Born?” I am sure all of us who knew Bill Mercer (who we affectionately called “Papa”) were somewhat curious about the sort of Christian religion he practiced. Harley and Bonnie Petty gave me some insight into the church at Naylor. It was at one time inhabiting an old school house in the middle of a farm field. I recall it being in Naylor, where it actually was at one point in time. Found out from a current member that the church in town was long ago torn down. What remains of the church assembly is a few miles west of Naylor as the countryside transforms to hills. It is technically the Church of the First Born Hebrews 12:23. This distinguishes it from two other religious groups bearing the same name. There is a sect of Mormonism that calls itself the Church of the First Born and, to my surprise, the actual historical name of the Assemblies of God is the “General Assembly and the Church of the First Born.” What is peculiar about the Hebrews 12:23 is a strong commitment to the small, informal assembly governance, something rather akin to the Plymouth Brethren (of which Garrison Keeler was affiliated in his youth). It explains how a new, older and uneducated Christian could become a lay pastor like Bill Mercer. While the style of worship is unique to each congregation, they adhere to the practice of the spiritual gifts, aka Pentecostalism.
There is a humorous twist to this style of Christianity in that my mother never let me live it down when I commented to her how many cousins I must have, for Mama and Papa had a lot of “brothers and sisters.” Brother this, brother that. And most of that sort of talk revolved around magnificent Sunday afternoon barbeques at somebody’s house. It is one of my fondest memories, smelling the fried chicken, BBQ of some sort, mashed potatoes, fresh green beans or black-eyed peas, with corn and tomatoes. And, of course, sweet tea. It was the sort of Christianity that had room for a woman who could scarcely sing a note, much less play the piano. But Bessie would do both as she banged out hymns and sang with little concern about what others may have thought. I would sit in the front pew, sometimes under a quilt as I would drift off to sleep.
The Church of the First Born has recently gotten into trouble in the realm of faith healing. It appears a vast majority of the churches have the common sense to advise their members to go to a doctor. But some, alas, have refrained from taking their children to a doctor when it is clearly obvious that medical assistance is needed. I never knew Mama and Papa to avoid a doctor, although they were emerging from an era when most people could not afford one. Until the 1940’s, “faith” was about all one had. While you could say a lot of things about the faith of my grandparents, “blind” was not one of them. If there are any regrets I have at Papa’s early passing, it was that I never got a chance to talk to him about God as an adult. And we all grieve that Bessie seemed to have wilted like a flower when Bill passed away. Gone was the piano, gone were the hymns and gone was the laughter — although the latter would occasionally bubble to the surface when one of us would remind her that about the only way to cure stupidity was laughter.